Big Fluff
Run out of a small second floor office in N16 is the clothing label Big Fluff. Surrounded by a collection of hand-printed tees and hoodies and fuelled by a nearly endless supply of tea, designer Azhar sits, fighting the gargantuan buying power of the high street stores. A high street all too willing to market cheap copycat designs in the name of competition. But individuality is his byword in both design and technique, so despite the competition he continues to thrive, grow and carve out his niche.
WHAT IS IT ABOUT THE HUMBLE T-SHIRT THAT LENDS ITSELF TO DESIGN?
They've been a fashion staple for decades, they suit everyone, and the design possibilities are endless! T-shirts can really make a statement - they can be striking and sophisticated, insulting or they can make you laugh out loud.
WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE T-SHIRT LIKE?
Of my own designs? Well, they're all good! Against my better judgement, I recently made my first slogan T-shirt. It says 'I cut my own hair' and it's fluorescent! I never thought I'd do anything with a slogan, but nobody believed that I do actually cut my own hair, so I thought I'd make a fucking T-shirt to prove it!
IS IT TOUGH STAYING AFLOAT AS A SMALL, INDEPENDENT LABEL?
It can be a struggle as a T-shirt label - the competition is very tough. The high street shops are so quick to pick up on trends and styles. Everyone loves a bargain but people also appreciate good design and are willing to pay a premium for something that's had real work put into it - and that they won't see ten other people wearing everyday! My process of printing helps as it allows me to achieve results that can’t be done using conventional methods. I also work with other garments such as fleece-lined cardigans and knitted jumpers which sets me apart from the general T-shirt designing crowd.
WHICH CELEBRITY WOULD YOU MOST LIKE TO DESIGN A T-SHIRT FOR?
I would love to get Lemmy into a hot pink polka dot T-shirt!
TELL US ABOUT YOUR INVOLVEMENT WITH MEDICINS SANS FRONTIERS?
They are working on something so basic and so vital - the provision of healthcare, medicine and sanitation. These are such basic things for us in the West that we take them for granted, but their lacking affects so many people on a day to day basis. If you take you have to give - I'm not a preacher, I just think that so much more could be done with a bit of compromise. Just take less and give more! (www.msf.org)
WHAT WAS THE FIRST T-SHIRT DESIGN YOU CAME UP WITH - HOW OLD WERE YOU?
The first time I made a T-shirt was around 5 years ago, so I was 24! There was a one day 'exhibition' where artists had a stall in Spitalfields market and a friend asked me to join him on his stall. I decided to make a load of Tshirts, all with 'T-shirt' written on them in different ways - 'T-shirt' T-shirts! I did one with cigarette burns all over it and some American guy bought it.
WHAT HAS YOUR BEST SELLER BEEN SO FAR?
My stag design called 'Trophy' has been really popular, and even though it's been ripped off by a couple of very well known shops it continues to sell well. I don't produce stuff for a particular market; cool kids from Hoxton buy the same designs as middle aged ladies in Hampstead. I like that!
ARE THERE ANY BIG BRANDS THAT YOU LIKE OR IS IT ALL ABOUT THE INDEPENDENTS?
I don't tend to draw much inspiration from big brands but like most people these days, I mix and match and just buy what I like. I've just got a great hoodie from the designer Michiko Koshino, and another one from H&M. I like them both equally!
WOULD YOU EXPERIMENT WITH MATERIAL OTHER THAN COTTON?
Definitely. I've printed on loads of different fabrics like denim, rayon and modal wood fibres. It's tricky as a small label to get hold of stuff though - factories want you to order thousands of items at a time which is impossible, and small runs can be prohibitively expensive. I've recently started sourcing organic cotton and I've been experimenting with sustainable bamboo yarn which is silky soft and almost translucent, it drapes over the body like liquid!
TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT THE DESIGN PROCESS FROM START TO FINISH...
They're hand printed, hand painted and every one is different. It's a really lowtech process. I cut stencils, woodblocks and then print away! I've gotta keep a few secrets though or everyone will be doing it.
WWW.BIGFLUFF.COM
Tom Lewis
