The Colour Wheel

You must have been living in a darkened crater in Siberia if you had not been taught the colour wheel at school. I remember the tedious art lesson pretending to listen to how colours supposedly create order and chaos, wondering when my tutor will shut up so I can attempt to create some mess that I will claim later was my inspired masterpiece. So obviously you can empathise at how stunned I am that all these years on, I find myself reverting back to the basics of colour harmony on a quest to define some standard rules applicable to fashion.

On the assumption that, like me, you have forgotten the various aspects of the colour wheel, I’ll refresh your matured memory without boring you to tears. Consisting of the primary and tertiary colours, the wheel is constructed in a manner that seats similar colours next to each other and contrasting colours opposite each other. So whilst orange is cuddling up to red, it is staring over at blue.

This savvy little system, attributed to Isaac Newton, is based on the laws of harmony. In visual experiences, harmony is what is pleasing to the eye. If something is not harmonious, it is either boring or chaotic. In one extreme, the viewer is so under stimulated they are not engaged and in the other instance extreme complexity is too much to take in and the viewer cannot bear to look at it. Therefore harmony is a dynamic equilibrium which delivers a visual interest and sense of order. Let me guess, you’re all sitting there thinking…yeah, and? Just be patient and you’ll see why I’m wasting energy and effort over this.

The colour wheel creates two main colour schemes, analogous and complimentary colours. Analogous colours are three colours that sit next to each other in the 12 part colour wheel, such as blue, blue-violet and violet, whilst complimentary colours are opposing each other in the wheel like yellow and violet. Thus we have our direction and by following both schemes (not on the same day, obviously) you can transform your outfits happy in the knowledge that by natural law, you look good.

After discovering this gem of colour rules, I have found my wardrobe opens up to me in a way it never did before. Gone are the days I reach for jeans and a black top because I’m playing safe, well aware that I’ll be blending into the background like an arctic hare in snow. Now, I know that if I team my deep navy dress with an orange belt and bangle, my outfit compliments itself and makes me look and feel a damn sight better. Or, I rock my ‘shades of orange and red’ attire that manages to turn heads, specially crafted so I do not look like a giant tomato but a stylish vamp instead.

I’m pleasantly shocked at how well this ancient theory lends itself to individual dress sense. Although we must also take into consideration the colours that actually suit our own skin tones. I doubt a canary yellow blouse and purple pencil skirt would look as good on a very pale woman as it would on someone with a warmer skin tone. It may be too overpowering and drown her out rather than make her stand out.

Not only does this code help determine what looks good, it also shows us what could look horrendous. If you thought perhaps those blue trousers would work with a lime green tee…you’d be so wrong. Or maybe you were in a rush and decided to slip on those blue-violet pumps with your red skirt, convincing yourself any bold colours look good together. As the wheel shows, those pumps need to be kicked off immediately, and replaced with some orange coloured sandals instead, thus taking you from disgrace to know-it-all fashionista in one swift movement.

With my research stapled firmly at the back of my mind, I searched the autumn/winter catwalk collections for examples to prove me wrong, expecting to come across a fair few outfits that break all colour rules and yet still work. I was thus stunned to see the majority of designers kept themselves within the colour boundaries and played safe. House of Holland showcased various models sporting bright violet and yellow tartan ensembles, displaying excellent use of complimentary colours. However he also teamed a hot pink and black jumper with a purple skirt, and one male model was strutting down the runway wearing a jumper both turquoise and yellow. These purposefully clashing colours look good here because House of Holland is confirming his already established reputation for loud and attention seeking pieces. Likewise Vivienne Westwood maintained her similar style in the Red Label collection, showcasing a model wearing red tartan trousers with a denim blue waistcoat, purple jacket and a bright blue hat. This evident clash works purely because it achieves what it was designed to do - grab attention of the attendees and the snap happy press and convey Westwood’s outrageous trademark style. As a distinctly average member of the public, I can safely say I would not step outside my front door in that, but on the catwalk, it looks good.

I am, of course, well aware that sometimes a predominantly black ensemble looks just as chic as an assortment of colour. Black is always the easiest choice and can be spruced up easily with a splash of colour somewhere in the chosen outfit. It is just good to know that when we wish to brighten up our wardrobe space, we now know (with huge thanks to Newton) how to work it to the maximum.

Nicola Louise Watson

23/11/08